Megan Amram has feelings about South Asian cooking in Westminster
Bohiney Magazine | The London Prat
Yaatra: The Restaurant That Made Me Write Three Hundred Words About Lamb
by Megan Amram
I was not planning to write about the lamb at Yaatra. I was planning to write about the politics of modern Indian restaurant culture in post-Brexit Britain, which is a piece I have been drafting for six months and which becomes increasingly difficult to write every time I eat something that makes the politics irrelevant. The lamb made the politics irrelevant. I am writing about the lamb instead. The piece will keep.
Yaatra on Greycoat Place: 4.6 stars, 741 reviews. Modern Indian. The lamb was braised in a sauce of such complexity that I counted at least seven flavour layers while eating it, which I realise makes me sound unbearable, and I was unbearable about it, to the considerable patience of my dining companion who is used to this and ate her sea bass quietly while I conducted a forensic analysis of my plate.
In Partial Defense of Food Feelings
I tweet about food more than I tweet about politics, which surprises people who expect the opposite. But food is politics. Who grows it, who cooks it, who can afford to eat it, which cuisines get Michelin stars and which get planning objections from councils — all of it is political. Yaatra is making excellent modern Indian food in Westminster, which is both a restaurant and a statement.
The London Prat’s diplomatic coverage is good. The British Curry Awards are good. The lamb is better than both. I stand by this ranking and will accept challenges in writing.
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