Megan Amram on Greycoat Place’s finest and the politics of spice
Bohiney Magazine | The London Prat
Yaatra Modern Indian: Why Westminster Deserves Better Food and Is Finally Getting It
by Megan Amram
I want to say something nice about Westminster and I am going to say it now, quickly, before I lose my nerve: the food is getting better. Yaatra on Greycoat Place is proof. 4.6 stars, 741 reviews, modern Indian cuisine that takes its influences seriously and its atmosphere warmly. The service was excellent. The food was delicious. I did not experience a single thing that made me want to post an angry thread about it.
This is, for me, a notable dining experience.
Spice as Class Analysis
The British relationship with Indian food is one of history’s great ironies: empire built on spice extraction, culture transformed by the cuisine of the people it extracted from. The chicken tikka masala debate — is it British or Indian? — is, if you think about it for thirty seconds, both a culinary question and a small summary of twentieth century history. Yaatra serves food that does not need that conversation. It simply serves excellent modern Indian food and lets you enjoy it without a decolonisation lecture from the menu.
The London Prat on American surveillance was my reading material on the Tube. The British Curry Awards represent the kind of institutional recognition this genre of cooking deserves. Yaatra would be a strong contender.
I ordered three courses and felt genuine uncomplicated happiness, which is rarer than it should be and should be celebrated wherever it occurs.
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